Ranji Smile: The Indian Chef Who Introduced New York to Indian Cuisine

Long before Indian food became popular across the United States, Ranji Smile, also known as J. Ranji Smile and Prince Ranji Smile, was making headlines in New York’s dining scene. Arriving in Manhattan in 1899, he became one of the earliest Indian chefs to introduce American audiences to traditional Indian flavours.

Hired by the prestigious Sherry’s restaurant on Fifth Avenue, Smile quickly attracted attention for his culinary skills, distinctive personality and claims of royal Indian ancestry. Dubbed the “King of the Curry Chefs” by the press, he became a favourite among New York’s wealthy diners.

His menu featured Indian dishes such as Madras chicken curry, bhaji, pappadums and Bombay duck. He also criticised the American approach to Indian cooking, arguing that authentic curries required patience and proper preparation, while rice should be light and fluffy rather than sticky.

By 1907, Smile was travelling across the country, conducting cooking demonstrations and introducing Indian recipes to American households. Although plans to establish a prominent Indian restaurant in New York were disrupted by immigration difficulties, later research suggested that he operated a restaurant called The Hindustan in Chicago in 1920.

Despite his success, Smile faced racial discrimination under American immigration and citizenship laws. His application for US citizenship was rejected in 1904 because naturalisation was restricted to white people. Records of his later life remain unclear.

Smile’s story highlights the role of early Indian migrants in shaping American food culture. His journey also reflects the challenges faced by South Asians seeking recognition and opportunity in an era marked by racial prejudice.

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